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Expedition Reports will be made regularly throughout the Big Expedition for Cancer Research. Expedition headquarters in Seattle will be in contact with the members of the Big Expedition by solar powered satellite communications as often as possible.
June 25, 2008 — Matt Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell, members of the inaugural Big Expedition for Cancer Research, arrived in Reid Inlet in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve where their adventure began two weeks ago. Their effort to reach the summit of unclimbed, unnamed Peak 8290 end at the 7800-foot level, where rock and snow conditions became unsupported and unsafe to continue on.
Cherry Payne, superintendent of the park, said in an email, "After all the public awareness of the effort, the team has demonstrated they are consummate professionals in making this decision (to turn around in unsafe conditions)."
Chief Ranger Randy Lawson, along with other park officials, met with the team to debrief when they returned to the Glacier Bay Lodge before heading to the Lower 48. He said, "This is an excellent team. Their judgment was solid and their expedition has given us very valuable new information about the conditions and geography in a very remote area of the park that hasn't been seen from the ground in over 30 years. I'm very pleased to have them back safely."
When the fishing boat Alaska Dream turned into Reid Inlet for the pick-up, the team was anxiously waiting on the beach with all their gear. And just above them on the side of the rocky hill was the brown bear who greeted them when they first arrived. He was watching this happening as if to say "Thanks for coming , but now it's time to go." The team certainly felt that way.
The boat ride back to park headquarters in Bartlett Cover was highlighted by a spectacular feeding frenzy by 7 humpback whales very close to shore. They jumped and breached and gulped for almost an hour to the delight of the mountaineers. So many pictures were being taken that digital chips had to changed in cameras to get them all. The exciting performance was a well deserved thank you for the team's care and concern for the wilderness environment in the park.
Upon arriving in Seattle the Big Expedition team met with organizers from Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. They were given some sense of the attention that their effort brought to the valuable cancer research that is being done at the Hutchinson Center. Thousands of interested citizens from across the country have followed this project both online and in the media. Articles have appeared from coast to coast and emails of congratulations have poured in. The team is preparing thank you's for more than 15 companies in the outdoor and communications industries that supported this effort. It would not have happened without them.
In the next few days, the team will disperse to various places around the country where they will get back to the professional guiding that is their livelihood. Their individual recollections of the Big Expedition will be posted on the website www.fhcrc.org/bigexpedition by next week and they will continue to be heralded for their part in an extraordinary effort.
Success is in the advancement of the cause. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is a concerted effort to draw the public closer to the enormity of the task to eliminate cancer as a cause for human suffering and death. The quest for more unclimbed mountains continues.
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June 24, 2008 — The four members of the Big Expedition for Cancer Research are working their way toward Reid Inlet and plan to be in Seattle by Thursday. The weather has continued to be "humid and sloppy" making progress across the Brady Icefield slow. The Alaska Dream, the boat that delivered them last weekend, is scheduled to pick them up in the next 24 hours depending on conditions. The team has to time their last camp to stay far enough away from the beach in order to avoid Mr. Bear's curiosity. Representatives from Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center are on their way to welcome the mountaineers back. Adult beverages and club soda were the first requests for the "Welcome Back" party. You can be sure that a hot, fresh pizza will not be far behind. Lots of emails and congratulatory messages have been received by the Hutchinson Center, lauding the team for making good decisions about not putting themselves in harm's way to make the summit. We are very proud of the Big Expedition's accomplishments in raising awareness for cancer research over the past nine months. We can't wait to see the pictures!
Message from Julie and Rick Emerson
Our congratulations to the entire team — climbers and the Hutchinson Center team alike. And a special thanks to you for the recurring updates. Life and living are about the journey — not the objective — and these folks demonstrate that balance. Our family has a member suffering from cancer (Julie's sister) so this expedition illustrates a lot to us. We must be thorough in our research, face challenges with fortitude, make educated decisions, and never give up faith. While we cannot win all the battles, we learn from each and will always remember the journey. P.S. A special hello to Dawn and Farmer. Way to go!
Message from Randy Larson, Chief Ranger, Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve
Congratulations are still in order to Kevin, Matt, Dawn, Bayard, Kit, and you! Clearly even from "the outfield bleacher seats" I think the team made obviously a prudent and sound decision given the treacherous conditions they were facing. Thank goodness for a highly experienced team who were comfortable in making a difficult decision. I'll look forward to seeing you either tonight or tomorrow.
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June 23, 2008 — The metaphor for cancer research is complete. There are more unclimbed mountains to challenge.
Late on Saturday, the team of four mountaineers on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research determined that they had reached the safe limits of their attempt to climb one of Alaska's unclimbed peaks. For 9 hours, they battled unstable snow, ice and rock to move within 500 vertical feet of the summit of Peak 8290 in Glacier Bay's Fairweather Range. The two rope teams huddled at the high point and called an end to their attempt of the unclimbed mountain in the inaugural Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center's Big Expedition.
Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center initiated this project to bring the broad general public a new awareness of the long and difficult road we are on to find a cure for cancer.
Lee Hartwell, president and director of the Hutchinson Center, when receiving the news said "The climbers are to be congratulated for going so far under trying conditions but especially for putting safety first. It is a true reflection of a principle that governs the research we do in each of our clinical trials. We are proud of the team for their successful challenge of this unclimbed mountain."
"Extremely hazardous" were the first two words out of 32 year old (Matt) Farmer's mouth when he made the sat phone call back from base camp to the Big Expedition's Seattle Communications Center. "We gave this mountain everything we had within the boundaries of safe, rational mountaineering standards. Sometimes the mountain sets the limits and we have to accept them," he said.
The team had been battling deteriorating weather conditions for three days. After establishing their 5100-foot base camp at the end of the week, they spent a day carrying a cache of climbing equipment top of a saddle at an elevation of 5500 feet for better access to their proposed route. They returned and began to plan their ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Peak 8290.
It was determined that leaving early in the evening would help mitigate the daytime warming temperatures that were making the snow and ice very unstable. The National Park Service in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve was very supportive and helpful throughout the expedition relaying weather conditions to the team on a regular basis. The team left base camp on skis at 9:15 pm on Friday evening.
They reached their cache in less than an hour and changed into climbing boots for the ascent. The team then traversed the flank of the ridge, working slowly and meticulously to avoid crevasses and other objective danger. They again took stock of the route in front of them and then moved up onto the Northeast Ridge as a group in two rope teams. Farmer from Seattle and Dawn Glanc, 32, from Bellingham, Washington, on one team. And Kevin Mahoney, 39, and Bayard Russell, 30, both from Madison, New Hampshire on the other. Progress was slow. The snow was very soft and mushy and there was avalanche danger to avoid as they progressed.
Above the 6000 foot level, they encountered unstable rock under the snow as they slowly ascended closer to the rock pyramid at the top of the mountain. What they realized as they crossed the 7000 foot level was that this mountain was "a big pile of rocks". The Northeast ridge and it summit pyramid had looked majestic from a distance, but in reality "it was like stacks of china teetering in the wind". Every step was a balancing act.
At approximately 7800 feet, the rope team of Mahoney and Russell looked hard at the treacherous traverse over to the summit pyramid. It was a 70 degree slope covered with crusty, "sugary" snow. The area was unsupported and there was no protection if it broke away and slid down the mountain. The danger was greater to those below the lead climber because anything (ice or rock) that was punched out by a foot or an ice axe would fall on those following behind.
After evaluating the treacherous situation, the two teams made the decision together that the summit was not to be. This was not a mountain that was ready to be conquered. After accepting that fact, "We were comfortable that this was the right decision. We had met the challenge and found it to be too daunting for us to return safely, if we advanced any further," Farmer said.
The descent to base camp was arduous as a new weather front moved in and it began to snow. The team reached base camp late Saturday afternoon and took stock of their encounter with the mountain. Two other less attractive unclimbed peaks nearby were discussed among the team members and it was determined that the same rock and ice conditions would be encountered there. Putting that option to rest, the group made the call back to headquarters in Seattle to say that the Big Expedition was coming home.
Thousands of interested citizens have followed this journey for cancer research in the media and online. Success is in the advancement of the cause. The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is a concerted effort to draw the public closer to the enormity of this task. As the team returns, the quest for more unclimbed mountains continues.
Thoughts from Cherry Payne, Superintendent, Glacier Bay Park and Preserve
My compliments to the team and the Hutchinson Center. After all the effort and the public awareness of the effort, the team has demonstrated they are consummate professionals in making this decision. Thanks to those who were involved in selecting and supporting the team. I regret I am not around to thank and bid every one goodbye personally (I'm in Montana). It has been a pleasure working with all involved.
Thoughts from researcher, Dr. David Thomas
I have just returned from Alaska myself, and as I was reading the reports of the Big Expedition (in reverse order) as I was going through my e-mail messages, your message of today arrived. It is, of course, a bit of a disappointment that they did not reach the summit, but as in cancer research, things do not always turn out as expected or as one would like. I am very pleased that the four climbers used good judgment and did not take unnecessary risks to get to the summit. Please extend to them my best wishes, and congratulations for a job well done. Also, thanks again to you and Linda for giving me the opportunity to be a small part of this endeavor.
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June 20, 2008 — The four mountaineers attempting an unclimbed mountain in Glacier Bay National Park are in position to make a summit attempt in the next two days. "Our nemesis is the wet, slushy snow. When we're not using our skis we're "post-holing" (sinking in the snow) up to our knees. It's very tough going," said Farmer via satellite phone.
They have established a base camp on the south side of a saddle in the Fairweather Range at about 5100 feet. "We have a beautiful view looking south across the snowfield. We can even see the water. We think it's the ocean but we're not certain," Farmer reports.
Yesterday, the team took their skis and some other equipment like bivy sacks (high altitude overnight sleeping bags) to a stash closer to Peak 8290 for the summit attempt. They plan to leave base camp at midnight tonight (Saturday, 12 am), pick up their skis and equipment and move across the northeast flank of the mountain. That should take them about two hours. They want to do as much climbing as they can during the night because that is as cool as the mountain will get in this weather.
Their route will be direct up the northeast ridge of the mountain. The first 2000 feet of the ridge are in the snow. It is then that they encounter the final 1000 feet to the summit on a "perfect rock pyramid", as they described it earlier in the week.
Selected by an advisory committee made up of climbing legends, (Matt) Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell have come together as team to climb this unclimbed and unnamed peak in the name of Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. This national awareness project is a metaphor for the valuable work being done at the Hutchinson Center and in many other locations around the world to eliminate cancer as a cause of human suffering and death.
We anxiously await their next report.
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June 20, 2008 — The snow on the icefield the Big Expedition team is traveling on is very soft and mushy. "We're sure happy we brought our skis. It would be tough going in this stuff without them," said Farmer in the latest satellite phone call. The team reached the base of the saddle, which is a bit steeper than expected in what was characterized as "a grunt!" The team will venture over the headwall to the surface of the saddle without their gear in order to find a good place for their base camp.
"We don't know whether we'll camp on this end (the south side) or the other until we have a look at it," Farmer commented, "We'll do that tomorrow." It will a take a long day or more to establish base camp. And after that, they will begin to plan their route to the summit of Peak 8290. The weather with high clouds, a 40% chance of rain and temperatures in the 50's, should aid them in their move up onto the Saddle.
The team only had one question though. What was the outcome of the Celtics-Lakers game? When they heard that the Celtics won the championship and the score was 131 to 92, a huge cheer came from the entire team especially the Northeasterners who are obviously big Celtics fans.
How are you going to celebrate? "Pizza has been our best meal so far!" What could be more satisfying? "The summit of Peak 8290 wouldn't be bad!"
The next report will come after the team has put in their base camp a little less than 2 kilometers from the mountain.
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June 18, 2008 — The early week was cloudy with a little drizzle on the Brady Icefield. With packs and sleds, the four mountaineers continued to make progress toward their base camp objective. They are still gaining elevation. With several hundred pounds of gear, progress has been slow, but steady. After traveling straight across the glacier, the team has now turned in a easterly direction. At the end of the day after making this directional change, they got their first look at Peak 8290 from the ground. "Striking!" is Farmer 's description. "An 800-foot perfect rock pyramid at the top!"
Jim Wickwire, who saw this peak some 30 years ago while climbing in the Fairweather Range, said that's how he would describe it , as well. When the team did their flyover in February, Kevin Mahoney was excited about all the snow. All he could think about was what a great ski run it would be. When the team went in this week, Kevin suddenly remembered what spring can do the mountains. "There's a lot of rock up there," he said.
Revisiting their encounter with the bear, who they haven't seen since, Farmer said the only other wildlife to be seen so far was a marten, a weasel-like furry animal with a long tail. This one was loping across the icefield alone, probably looking for something eat.
Tomorrow, the team's objective will be the base of the saddle, where they will ultimately put their base camp. There they will set-up all their tents and gear and begin identifying their route to summit of Peak 8290. They're getting close.
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June 17, 2008 — On Monday, June 16, the four mountaineers on the Big Expedition for Cancer Research were on the Brady Icefield and picking up their pace toward base camp. Via satellite phone, Matt Farmer, who likes to be called Farmer, said that the team was in good shape and moving toward the southeast corner of the ice field where they will get their first look at Peak 8290 from the ground.
Since arriving at Reid Inlet on Saturday, the team has had two good days for travel. On Saturday, they moved all their gear approximately 1.5 miles up to the top of Reid Glacier. The terrain was too steep to use their sleds so they each had to make three round trips with only their packs to reach their first overnight camp.
Not 5 minutes after they brought their last load to the campsite, the "Visitor" appeared. Remember the bear that the Park Service told them about? He poked his head up over the moraine not 50 feet away and just looked at them. The team grabbed every pot, pan and noisemaker they could find and began beating, banging and screaming at the top of their lungs. Mr. Bear just looked on in amazement. Fortunately, in this remote location, the "Visitor" hasn't really seen any humans so he probably was watching the team make each carry during the day wondering what in the world they were doing. Regardless, after observing for awhile, he sauntered off and was not seen again.
Great precautions were taken that first night. No fire. No cooking. Only cold food for dinner. The food was buried and every crumb picked up. There was surely one eye open at all times that night.
Sunday, Day Two on the glacier, was glorious and sunny. There was still some elevation to deal with so the team were not able to move at top speed. In spite of that, they covered almost three miles and enjoyed a great day in the Fairweather Range.
Thus far, the Big Expedition has gone according to plan except for the "Visitor". Everyone is healthy. The gear is working and they are bearing down on their base camp location. More to come.
Thoughts from researcher, Dr. Katie Peichel
Meeting the unexpected bear within the first few days of the trip is quite similar to research. You can plan and plan and plan an experiment, but then you finally start the experiment and a completely unexpected problem shows up. So, you need to grab whatever you have available and figure out how to face the bear and then move on with your experiment.
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June 14, 2008 — Aboard the Alaska Dream fishing boat, Matt Farmer, Dawn Glanc, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell reached the starting point of the Big Expedition for Cancer Research under cloudy skies at noon, Alaska Time, on Saturday, June 14. In addition to Captain Jim Kearns, the team was accompanied by Kit Herrod and Dan McConnell from the Hutchinson Center Organizing Task Force. Ten large duffels, four pairs of skis, utility sleds, satellite equipment and a computer were quickly unloaded on the rocky shore and the team immediately began to reorganize and repack the gear to ascend the glacier to the location of their first overnight camp in the planned four day journey to base camp for the attempt on the unclimbed, unnamed mountain, known only as Peak 8290.
The four mountaineers arrived in Seattle last Wednesday evening in order to make final preparations for the Friday flight to Glacier Bay National Park. Last minute equipment deliveries and fresh food purchases were done on Thursday, while all the gear was packed for the Alaska trip in a huge conference room at the Hutchinson Center. Throughout the day, well wishers stopped by to look at the piles of gear and equipment that the team would be taking to the mountain. Dr. Rainer Storb, who met with the team in January on their first visit to the Hutchinson Center, looked on and shook his head saying, "This is quite an undertaking quite something. I wish them all the best!"
The major concern for Friday's flight to the park was checking the mountain of gear that accompanied the team. With the new airline baggage regulations, there was some apprehension that getting all the duffels and skis on the plane with the team would be a major difficulty. However, as it turns out there are friends of Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center everywhere, including Sea-Tac Airport, and check-in went very smoothly.
It was about halfway through the 17-minute flight from Juneau to Gustavus near the entrance to Glacier Bay National Park that the flight attendant came on the loudspeaker and said, "We are privileged today to have the members of the Big Expedition for Cancer Research on board with us. They will be attempting to climb an unclimbed mountain in the northern reaches of the park for Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Let's wish them well with a big round of applause," and that's just what they got. It all seemed very real at that point.
On Friday evening, the team met with officials from the National Park Service who showed their support for the Big Expedition. Park Superintendent Cherry Payne, Head Ranger Randy Larson and Margaret Hazen, Visitor Use Supervisor, spent a couple of hours with the team discussing all the elements of the expedition, showing recent photos of the mountain and the approach and offering every resource they have to help make the Big Expedition a success. The special use permit that was issued to the team is the first such permit granted in over 30 years. The team exchanged some wry smiles and grins when they were told about the brown bear that has been hanging around the beach in Reid Inlet looking for seafood. It was suggested that the team should make their camp on the ice field at least a mile from the beach and there were absolutely no arguments.
The boat ride on Saturday morning was chilly but stimulating. Dawn said she just had to see a whale before she left the park and she didn't have to wait that long. An hour or so into the trip, two young humpback whales came to see Dawn and the rest of the team. The whales breached several times and crossed in front of the boat as if to wish the team a safe journey. Along with several sea otters with babies on their chests and bald eagles, the wildlife in the park all joined in to kick-off the Big Expedition.
As Alaska Dream pulled away from the shore, the team began assuming their roles as they prepared for the journey of a lifetime. The parallels to the work being done by cancer researchers at the Hutchinson Center are very clear. It is a long, hard road but it is dotted with successes that advance us toward the ultimate goal. The mountaineers became small specks on the vast Alaskan landscape, but there was no doubt that their contribution would be worthy of major note in the years ahead. We wish them well.
See the gallery of photos from the first leg of the Big Expedition »
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June 12, 2008 — The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is going into an area of Glacier Bay National Park that has not been seen on foot for over 30 years. Our plan is to remain in communication with the team of four professional mountaineers by an advanced satellite communications system. That system is built around Broadband Global Area Network unit, called a B-Gan. This unit and the satellite access for sending messages, photos and video is being provided to the Big Expedition by Vizada Satellite Communications, a Norwegian company. Photos will be taken on a Canon SD 750 Sureshot and video on a small, light JVC digital camcorder. Digital photo and video files will be transmitted to expedition headquarters in Seattle on a planned schedule. The team is carrying a back-up satellite phone, in order to communicate by voice in emergency situations if the primary system cannot function.
Because of the remote location of Peak 8290, the unclimbed mountain that is the objective of the expedition, a primary concern is the power source for the equipment. All systems run on rechargeable battery power. A solar power recharging unit has been recommended by Vizada and purchased by the expedition as primary power for all equipment. The team began the expedition with fully charged batteries in all equipment and a set of tested accessories that are intended to keep equipment operating throughout the three-week expedition. A 24-hour help line is being provided by Vizada and the team is initiating a strict power management program that will preserve energy to the necessary equipment for emergency and communications purposes.
Once base camp had been established at the base of Peak 8290, a daily reporting plan will be initiated. The National Park Service at Gustavus, Alaska and Seattle expedition headquarters will be in regular contact with the team throughout the expedition.
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June 11, 2008 — The Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center team of four professional climbers packed their climbing gear and satellite equipment Thursday, June 12 in preparation for the Big Expedition, which kicked off Saturday, June 14, in Alaska. The Expedition has strong support from the industry with 15 official suppliers that have donated equipment and gear.
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May 20-21, 2008 — In preparation for their planned ascent in mid-June of an unclimbed peak in Alaska's Glacier Bay National Park, the four Big Expedition mountaineers — Matt Farmer, Dawn Glance, Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell — left the morning of Tuesday, May 20 from Paradise for a practice climb up Mt. Rainier. This is the first time all four members of the Big Expedition team have been together and have had the chance to climb together. Four scientists from Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center — David Maloney, Katie Peichel, Julian Simon and David Thomas — joined the professional mountaineers on their assault up Mt. Rainier. All of the researchers are avid outdoor enthusiasts and three had successfully scaled the mountain previously.
In spite of the snowy and windy weather of May, the group was able to reach Camp Muir where they spent the night. At about 4 am the next morning, May 21, they were up and ready to begin their ascent to the summit. Unfortunately, at about 12,000 feet the high winds and harsh weather forced them to abandon their plans to reach the summit. Despite not being able to reach the top of the 14,411 foot peak, the climbers and the researchers returned to paradise declaring the attempt a wonderful adventure.
While together, the four mountaineers also had the opportunities to further discuss and plan their climb of the Alaskan mountain, simply known as #8290, in June. Photos were examined, possible routes discussed and gear and equipment needs outlined.
The mountaineer team will reassemble in Seattle on June 12 to pack for the expedition. They leave for Gustavus, Alaska on June 13 and will depart from Gustavus for Reid Glacier, the starting point for the expedition, on June 14.
See photos of the Big Expedition climbers and scientists on the Mt. Rainier practice climb »
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Mar. 12, 2008 — With 20 successful outdoor companies expressing strong interest in the Big Expedition for Cancer Research, this first time endeavor continues to gain momentum across the country. The term "Official Supplier" is being offered to all these companies that are offering products and services to the Big Expedition team. Mountain Hardwear, a key supplier of clothing and equipment, has two of the team members, Kevin Mahoney and Dawn Glanc, on their athlete roll. They were first to commit and are very eager to begin working with this groundbreaking effort.
JanSport, another high profile industry leader, is on board and looking for different ways to be involved with both climbing gear and travel goods. Jubol eyewear has joined the group and has long- time experience working with Kevin Mahoney and Bayard Russell on the East Coast. The Coleman Company wants to include their hard goods, such as stoves and cookware, on the Big Expedition and sees the value of what this project will accomplish in terms of outreach around the country.
Brooks-Range Mountaineering is another supplier of much-needed accessories like shovels and sleds and has offered to step up for the Big Expedition. Matt Brooks knows our mountaineers and has great respect for Matt Farmer, having worked with him in the past. When Brooks met with the team in Reno at the Outdoor Retailer Show, he was ready to sign on.
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The Big Expedition for Cancer Research is heavy into preparation for the adventure next June. Up next on the schedule is a reconnaissance flight to finalize the choice of the mountain and a good route. Our mountaineering advisory committee has been very helpful in selecting the team and searching for an unclimbed mountain. Jim Wickwire is serving as our Alaska expert, but we also have very strong support from the National Park Service, including the acting regional director and head ranger, among others.
The reconnaissance flight has been delayed so far because of weather. We need clear, sunny skies to see the relief in the terrain for the best view. The flat light of clouds coupled with a covering of snow make route selection difficult right now.
Our team of mountaineers is ready and working hard at their winter guiding and teaching chores. Farmer, as he likes to be called, and Dawn Glanc leave for the winter guiding season in Europe on February 1st. We are planning a visit to the Hutchinson Center in late January so everyone can meet the team. More on our winter planning activities in the next update.
These companies are typical of the response throughout the industry for this outreach event. Everyone sees the link between an unclimbed mountain and the search for a cure for cancer. Both challenges seems daunting at times, but the will and stamina of the teams will win out in the long run.
Next up is the fly-over of the chosen mountain in Alaska's Glacier Bay National Park. In the next week or so, the team plans to bring back some fresh photos of a mountain that hasn't even been seen by mountaineers in more than 30 years. Stay tuned here for the latest developments with the Big Expedition for Cancer Research.
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